When I was twelve my mom and I took a trip over spring break to visit my family in France. I was pretty sure I would return to the 6th grade a changed gal. You know, all worldly and sophisticated. That did not happen but I did return with two of the most significant food experiences that would stick with me throughout my life.
We stayed with my grandparents, who made elaborate multi-course meals every day for lunch. It was heavenly. Soups, salads, wild mushrooms foraged from the back woods of their village, cheeses, fruit and pastries. Your typical French family lunch gathering. It was pretty magical.
At my grandmother's table, I had the most flavorful and comforting soup of my life. I've been trying to recreate that experience for nearly two decades. This came pretty close. Up until now, every attempt had been far too heavy on the carrot and not enough balance of herbs. Next time, I'll thin this one out a bit with more water and milk and I'll add a lot more thyme.
Incidentally, I also experienced mascorpone cheese with a bit of jam on top as one of several dessert courses that afternoon. I assumed it was yogurt and had been trying every French style yogurt to replicate that subtle taste for years. French yogurt is good, but it's no mascorpone. Tell me, is there anything more powerful than a taste memory? I'd love to hear any of yours. I can also remember the taste of a slice of pizza from the Latin Quarter in Paris and my very first falafal in the red light district of Amsterdam. My mom had a knack for landing us in the shadiest of neighborhoods throughout that trip.
Potage Crécy Soup via Blue Kitchen, adapted from the William Sonoma French cookbook.
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 leek, white and tender green parts, rinsed and sliced
3/4 pounds carrots [about 5 or 6], diced
3/4 pounds russet or Yukon gold potatoes, diced
2-1/2 cups chicken stock or broth
1-1/4 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves [or 1/2 teaspoon dried]
1 cup half-and-half (I used a combination of milk and cream and just continued to add more a 1/4 cup at a time)
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste [see Kitchen Notes]
additional fresh thyme leaves, for garnish [or finely chopped flat-leaf parsley—see Kitchen Notes]
Heat a dutch oven or large soup pot over medium heat. Melt butter and combine with olive oil. Add leeks and sauté, stirring occasionally, about 4 minutes. Add potatoes and carrots and sauté for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Add chicken stock and bring to a simmer. Add thyme, cover the pot and simmer until carrots and potatoes are tender, about 25 minutes. Purée the soup in a blender or food processor, in batches, if necessary. [Alternatively, use a handheld immersion blender in the pot.] I used my passiore (food mill) and the consistency was perfect.
Return puréed soup to the pot. Add half-and-half, lemon juice and nutmeg. Season with salt and pepper to taste [using a light hand, depending on how salty your chicken stock or broth is]. Bring to a simmer until just heated through. Ladle soup into bowls and garnish with fresh thyme leaves or parsley. Serve.
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